Raja ampat - A Diver’s Journey to Misool

From Sorong to Stingless Jellyfish Dreams

I recently returned from one of the most extraordinary diving adventures I’ve ever had — a trip to Misool, one of the famed "Four Kings" of Raja Ampat, Indonesia. While our expedition didn’t cover the full expanse of the archipelago, spending several days exploring the underwater paradise around Misool was more than enough to make me fall in love with this remote corner of the world. Here's a journal-style recount of what went down, from Sorong to the jellyfish lake and everything in between.

Arrival to Sorong – A Slow Welcome

We landed in Sorong a day before embarkation, and I’m so glad we did! That buffer day turned out to be the perfect way to reset after the long travels and gently ease into the rhythms of Papua. We stayed at the Swiss-Belhotel, a solid and comfortable choice just a 10-minute drive from the marina where our speedboat pick-up would happen the next morning.

After catching up on sleep, we spent the afternoon exploring a bit of Sorong. We visited a local souvenir shop, took one of the bright yellow community taxis (a local experience on its own) and walked by a Christian church just as Sunday mass was starting. A great local experience as we were invited to join while the congregation was singing inside, but we had to keep going…

We had dinner at one of the marina restaurants — not only was the food delicious, but the view over the harbor was a perfect prelude to the next day’s adventure - it turned out to be where the liveaboard would pick us up the next morning. It made everything feel like it was clicking into place.

Despite the charms, Sorong also gave us a stark reminder of some of the socio-economic challenges in the area. We saw children asking for money in the street, piles of trash lining some sidewalks and at one point a rat darting across a rubbish pile. Still, the local people were warm, smiling and waving at us, especially the children. So many kids greeted us with a cheerful “Hello!”

Welcome Aboard: From Marina to Misool

By mid morning the next day, the boat crew picked us up on time from the hotel and brought us to the marina. We were welcomed aboard by the Cruise Manager who gave us a detailed rundown of life on board – cabins, safety procedures, dive briefings and logistics. As I was the only one from The Big Blue group in a lower deck cabin, I was given a personal walkthrough of the emergency exits, which I highly appreciated. The rest of cabins in the main and upper decks were given the emergency routes during the overall safety briefings as it was quite straightforward to follow.

After lunch, we had our check dive at a site near Sorong called Red Light District (no, not that kind!). Unfortunately, the current was stronger than expected and carried us away from the intended dive spot. Our guide sensibly called the dive after 10 minutes and we surfaced to try again. On the second attempt, we managed to explore the reef – we spotted a new kind of nudibranch, stonefish and heard another group had seen a Wobbegong shark! All in all a good reminder of what type of diving we might encounter for the rest of our trip!

Misool Underwater: A Living Dream

From there on, the days melted into one mind-blowing dive after another. Raja Ampat truly delivered. Each dive brought a new highlight – dramatic swim-throughs, vibrant coral gardens bursting with both soft and hard corals and marine life so diverse it felt like diving through an underwater encyclopedia.

Some unforgettable moments:

• A stunning cave night dive, where we surfaced into a dome filled with stalactites and our guides even made music with them - the sounds echoing through the chamber!

• Seeing a sleeping carpet-like Wobbegong shark up close – absolutely hypnotic.

• Gliding alongside manta rays, hawksbill turtles munching coral and big schools of jackfish and unicornfish.

• Witnessing Giant Trevallies hunting while hooked on the reef against strong currents.

• Pygmy seahorses tucked into vibrant gorgonian sea fans – I was amazed at how many we saw; I had always thought they were incredibly rare.

• A night drift dive that ended with black tip reef sharks hunting beneath us during our safety stop. That really got the adrenaline going!

• An “upside-down safety stop” under an island ledge, where one of our guides inflated his BCD, flipped upside down, and pretended to walk on the ceiling – a hilarious and surreal moment I tried to replicate… and failed! (I mostly just floated awkwardly in place, but hey – I tried!).

• BBQ on the deck with music performed by the crew and dive guides. Everyone sang along after a delicious spread of BBQ meat, seafood and veggies.

And the macro life didn’t disappoint either: Orangutan crabs (a first for me!), electric clams, more new nudis, blue-striped snappers, mesmerising cuttlefish, leaf scorpionfish in all kinds of colors, schools of squid on the surface at night and lobsters poking out of many crevices on our night dives.

And just when we thought the surprises were over – on our final day, a pod of dolphins appeared near the boat. My roommate and I grabbed our masks and jumped in, hoping to swim with them. We could hear them clearly underwater, their clicks and whistles echoing around us, but they didn’t come to our calls. Still, floating there, listening to dolphins in the blue was very exciting, indeed!

The Stingless Jellyfish Lake: An Otherworldly Finale

On our final day, just when I thought the trip couldn’t get any better, we visited the stingless jellyfish lake. We hiked up and over the island via a short but slightly challenging path built by the local community, then down into a saltwater lake that felt like a dream.

No fins, no wetsuits, no sunscreen – just you, your mask and thousands of gentle jellyfish drifting around you in absolute silence. The moment I submerged my head, everything else disappeared. It was as if time stopped. The jellyfish, which evolved to lose their sting over centuries of isolation, floated around us like something out of a Studio Ghibli film. It was peaceful, meditative and somehow profoundly moving.

Return to Sorong

Our final dive was followed by lunch and the long crossing back to Sorong. The crew took care of washing and hanging our gear so it could dry properly before packing. We arrived in time for dinner, still glowing (and exhausted!) from the week we’d just lived.

⸻

Takeaway?

If you ever plan a trip like this – arrive a day early. That extra time in Sorong made all the difference in transitioning into the pace of Papua. And from the moment we stepped onto the liveaboard to the moment we disembarked, everything was seamless. It was a trip full of firsts, wonder and underwater magic. One of those that remind you exactly why you dive.

The Diving Skill That Will Instantly Make you a Better Diver (But Many Ignore)

Hello…  It’s me. Can we talk about buoyancy? 🫣

I know, I know… you’ve well past this diving skill and there’s nothing new you’re going to get out of this read…. Or is there?

Ok, this is a controversial one, but buoyancy is the one skill that truly separates great divers from “underwater snorkelers” who constantly move their hands to adjust positioning, often crash into coral or other divers and seem to be unaware of their yo-yo diving profiles going up and down in the water column. (Don’t shoot the messenger..!)

Here’s the controversial part: many divers, even experienced ones (yes, even at divemaster level) never fully master it.

That’s right. You’ve probably seen it yourself — divers with hundreds of dives still struggling to simply….

hover…

still…

without finning.

These could be inexperienced or experienced divers who unknowingly bump into the reef or go through their gas faster than everyone else on the boat. But why? Because buoyancy isn’t just about experience — it’s about effort and awareness.

Let’s have a look at why this happens and what we can do to master it. But first, how can we be sure if we already are deserving of a Buoyancy “Black Belt”? Here’s what to look out for in such diver:

• Neutral at Any Depth - Hovers effortlessly without sinking or rising, using breath control instead of BCD adjustments. More importantly - doesn’t need to be constantly fining to maintain same depth.

• Proper Trim – Maintains a horizontal, streamlined position with minimal fin movement.

• Low Air Consumption – Uses less energy, leading to longer dives without wasting energy fighting the water column.

• Controlled Movements – Ascends and descends in control, not too fast, without stirring up the environment. They maintain buoyancy even if task-loaded (taking photos, deploying an SMB...)

• Correct Weighting – Can hover at a safety stop with an almost empty tank without shooting up nor sinking.

• Environment Awareness – Avoids touching coral, stirring sediment or disturbing marine life. A diver with perfect buoyancy makes it look effortless and is aware of the positioning of their fins when diving in swim-throughs or if too close to the bottom.

Why So Many Divers Struggle With Buoyancy?

• No One Told Them – If an instructor or dive buddy never pointed out their buoyancy issues, they might assume they’re fine. Many divers get certified, start diving regularly and never really revisit the fundamentals. (Big No No)

• Bad Habits Get Reinforced – Just because someone has 500 dives doesn’t mean they’re doing it right. In fact, if they’ve been diving inefficiently for years, those habits are now ingrained... and they will be harder to correct.

• They Rely on Equipment Instead of Technique – Yes, a good wing and backplate setup can help, but true buoyancy mastery comes from body positioning, breath control and knowing exactly how much weight we really need.

• Complacency – Some divers reach a point where they think “I’ve been diving for years; I must be good enough.” But true mastery means always fine-tuning our skills. We should keep improving.

So, How Do We Actually Master It?

• Dump the unnecessary weight – So many divers are overweighted without realising it. If you still need to constantly add air to your BCD at depth, you’re probably carrying too much lead.

• Perfect your breathing – Your lungs are your natural buoyancy control device. Inhale slightly to rise, exhale slightly to sink. If you rely too much on your BCD, you’re missing the point. When entering the water, breath calmly and slowly so you’re not making yourself too buoyant to descend.

• Film yourself – Ever wondered how you really look underwater? A quick video can reveal everything from poor trim to unconscious fin movements. Ask a buddy to film you without you knowing. You can do the same so you can comment and exchange impressions.

• Do an actual buoyancy workshop – Peak Performance Buoyancy isn’t just for beginners. Even experienced divers benefit from a session focused purely on fine-tuning their control.

• Ask for feedback – A dive buddy or instructor with sharp skills can often spot what you don’t.

The bottom line

Just because someone has been diving for years doesn’t mean they’ve mastered buoyancy. It’s a skill that takes deliberate practice, self-awareness and sometimes a little humbleness to admit there’s room for improvement. 

The best divers aren’t the ones with the most dives; they’re the ones who constantly work on getting better.

So, be honest — how’s your buoyancy really? :)

diving in maldives: what you need to know

Whether you’re planning your first trip or returning for another unforgettable underwater adventure, here’s everything you need to know to make the most out of your next Maldives diving experience.

Best Time to Dive in Maldives

Although it’s fair to say that in recent years climate patterns have and continue to change, there are still two distinctive seasons to consider when planning when to visit:

• Dry Season (December–April): Best visibility, calmer seas and stronger currents, making it ideal for manta rays and whale sharks. You might get the occasional torrential shower which usually clears to bright blue skies in a few minutes.

• Wet Season (May–November): Increased plankton brings even more filter feeders like mantas and whalesharks but the price to pay is lower visibility. Generally northern atolls are recommended over central or southern atolls. Some great deals on liveaboards!

Top Dive Regions & What to Expect

• Ari Atoll - More than just whalesharks

Ari Atoll is famous for its year-round whale shark sightings, but there’s so much more to discover beneath its turquoise waters. From thrilling channel dives to manta cleaning stations and vibrant coral reefs, this atoll offers a diverse range of underwater experiences for all levels of divers.

• Vaavu Atoll: Home to the Maldives’ Wildest Channel Dives

If you love exhilarating drift dives, Vaavu Atoll is for you. Its deep channels and strong currents attract large pelagics like Grey Reef, White Tip and even Hammerhead sharks patrolling the edge of the drop off, especially with incoming current, making it one of the most action-packed diving regions in Maldives.

• Fuvahmulah: Shark Island

Fuvahmulah is unlike any other Maldivian atoll — it’s one deep-ocean island that attracts some of the rarest and biggest sharks in the world. If you’re after adrenaline-pumping big-animal encounters, this is your place. It’s home to more than 300 identified Tiger Sharks (most females). You can also encounter Thresher sharks all year-round, Oceanic Mantas (much bigger than reef mantas) during season. If you’re lucky you might encounter Hammerheads or even the elusive Mola Mola.

• Rasdhoo Atoll: Small but mighty

Though much smaller than other atolls, Rasdhoo offers some of the best shark diving in the Maldives. With a mix of deep walls, channel diving and stunning coral gardens. It’s a great stop for adventurous divers - a pre-dawn dive might reward you with the rare chance to see schooling hammerheads in the open ocean.

• Baa Atoll: Manta Madness

Baa Atoll is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and one of the most biodiverse regions in the Maldives. While it’s famous for Hanifaru Bay, a world-renowned manta ray hotspot, the atoll also offers fantastic reef diving, rich marine life and stunning coral formations.

Liveaboard vs. Local Island Diving

• Liveaboard: The best way to experience multiple atolls and remote dive sites. Ideal for advanced divers with a minimum of 30 to 50 logged dives looking for variety and adventure. Great first diving experience in Maldives before choosing an atoll to explore more in depth - excuse the pun - from land.

• Local Island Diving: Great if you prefer a relaxed, land-based stay with easy access to top dive sites near your island while also experiencing Maldivian culture and a more budget-friendly option. Maldives has a well-developed speedboat and ferry network making it easy to hop between islands.

There’s strictly no alcohol available on local islands (except for very few floating bars rarely available off-shore) and visitors are expected to respect local customs and only wear revealing swimwear on their designated “Bikini Beaches”. Some islands do not have a “Bikini Beach” which means you must wear shorts and t-shirt at the very minimum.

Essential Tips for Diving in the Maldives

• Currents can be strong: Many dives are drift dives, so good buoyancy control and experience in currents are a plus.

• Bring your reef hook: Useful for hanging on in strong currents while watching big marine life.

• Respect marine life: No touching or chasing — many marine creatures are protected.

• Choose eco-conscious operators: Support dive centers and liveaboards that follow sustainable practices.

Diving in the Maldives is an unforgettable experience filled with big marine life, vibrant reefs, and incredible underwater encounters. Whether you’re dreaming of whale sharks encounters, diving with tiger sharks or alongside manta rays, this destination never disappoints.

liveaboard essentials

The Maldives is a dream destination for liveaboard diving, with its turquoise waters, abundant marine life, and breathtaking dive sites. However, diving on a shared liveaboard, especially with a mix of cultures and practices, requires extra preparation to ensure everyone feels comfortable and respected.

Whether you’re a Muslim diver balancing your prayer routine or a Western diver exploring new cultural norms, these tips will help you make the most of your first Maldives liveaboard adventure.

Here are 10 top tips for your first liveaboard trip in the Maldives to ensure an enjoyable time:

1. Pack Smart for the Tropics

Luckily, the Maldives has a warm climate, so you won’t need heavy clothing, but thoughtful packing is essential, as space is limited on the boat.

•   Clothing: Light, breathable clothing, a hat and a sarong or cover-up for sun protection is useful. Bring several sets of swimwear/shorts so you always have a dry one for the next dive.

•     Dive Gear: Water is 27-30C all year-round. Most divers are comfortable diving in rashguards and no wetsuit, BUT! if you’re prone to get cold quickly, a 3mm shorty or full body wetsuit should be enough.

•     Avoid: Overpacking; you’ll spend most of your time in swimwear or wetsuits!

2. Bring Your Dive Essentials

While most liveaboards provide rental equipment, having your own gear will most definitely enhance comfort.

• Essentials: Mask, fins, dive computer and a surface marker buoy (SMB).

• Extras for Comfort: Rashguards are often underrated by beginner divers. Having a rashguard will not only give you an extra layer of warmth after consecutive diving but also will prevent chafing from the BCD jacket on your skin or potential scratching against the reef or marine life. Especially if you’re still adjusting you buoyancy control.

3. Stay Organized & Respect Shared Spaces

With limited space in shared cabins, being mindful of common spaces is key.

• Dive Deck: Organize your gear neatly and avoid taking up too much room.

• Social Areas: Allow others to enjoy quiet moments if they appear to want some “me time” and be inclusive when socializing.

• Prayer Spaces: If you need to pray, let your cabin buddy know your routine so they can respect your time and space. If you’re not following prayer routine, being mindful of others who are will go a long way.

3. Cater to Your Diet & Stay Hydrated

Liveaboards often serve a mix of cuisines, but it’s good to confirm dietary preferences in advance.

• Halal Food: Most Maldivian liveaboards cater to halal diets—just confirm with the operator beforehand.

• Western Diets: Expect a mix of local and Western dishes; feel free to mention allergies or preferences.

• Drink up!: Drink plenty of water between dives to combat dehydration. Also bring personal snack favorites for long days of diving.

4. Be Prepared for Limited Connectivity

Liveaboards are often far from cell towers (thankfully!) meaning little to no internet and more human to human interactions.

• Relax: Use this time to unwind, read or journal. Maybe learn more about marine life and generally, slow down.

• Enjoy: Embrace the surroundings! but if you must have your fix - download books, movies or music playlists for entertainment, beforehand.

5. Master Your Dive Etiquette

Sharing a liveaboard with other divers means respecting the group’s schedules.

• Dive Briefings: Attend timely to avoid delays and ensure a smooth itinerary.

• Safety Time: Listen attentively during dive briefings to ensure everyone’s safety.

7. Be Environmentally Conscious

Liveaboards operate in pristine marine environments, so it’s important to minimize your impact.

• Reef-safe Products: Use reef-safe sunscreen

• No plastic: Avoid single-use plastics and bring a reusable water bottle you can refill onboard.

• Buoyancy Control: Be mindful of your buoyancy and your fins position to prevent accidental damage to corals.

8. Manage Seasickness

Even calm waters can lead to seasickness for some divers.

• Prevent: Bring motion sickness tablets or ginger candies.

• Keep it under control: Focus on the horizon, have some fresh air and avoid the upper decks when feeling queasy.

9. Prepare for Incredible Diving

Maldives diving is world-class, from thrilling drift dives to encounters with mantas and whale sharks.

• Gear Checks: Ensure your gear is ready and adequately serviced for a whole week of diving.

• Safety First: Stick to your guide’s instructions always, and specially for more challenging sites.

• Camera Prep: The Maldives offers spectacular photo ops, make sure your camera batteries are charged!

10. Embrace Flexibility

Diving conditions can change unexpectedly and itineraries might be adjusted while onboard.

• Trust the crew: They prioritize safety and will ensure you have an amazing experience.

• Be open: You might end up exploring alternate dive sites you didn’t know about, including some hidden gems!